How to care for your indoor furnitureUpdated 15 minutes ago
Your furniture arrives ready to use. Every piece leaves our workshops with its protective finish already applied, so you never need to seal, varnish or oil a new piece before using it. This guide takes you through everyday cleaning, where to place your furniture, feeding and re-treating, small repairs, and range-specific guidance so you can keep it looking its best for years to come.
Understanding your finish
What's important to know is which type of finish you have, because it decides whether your piece needs feeding later on.
Which finish do I have?
| Range | Finish |
|---|---|
| Oslo | Water-based paint with a wax & oil finish |
| Amberley, Marlow, Ophelia | Solvent-based NC lacquer |
| Burford & Chalbury | Solvent-based NC lacquer, sometimes over a stain |
| Hadley | Solvent-based lacquer |
Why it matters: lacquered finishes are sealed and, in most of our ranges, need nothing more than cleaning. Wax and oil finishes are breathable and need topping up from time to time. Everything below on cleaning, placement, care routine and repairs applies whichever finish you have.
Everyday cleaning
Weekly dusting: wipe the piece over with a soft, dry microfibre or lint-free cotton cloth once a week. That's all routine care needs – regular dusting stops grease and grime building up and is far kinder to the finish than occasional deep cleaning.
Removing marks and grease
- Dust the area dry first so you're not dragging grit across the surface.
- Wring a cloth out in water until it releases no water at all when squeezed. For greasy marks, add 1–2 drops of mild pH-neutral washing-up liquid per litre of water.
- Wipe gently along the grain.
- Immediately wipe the area dry with a second clean, dry cloth.
Wipe up spills as soon as they happen rather than leaving them to soak in.
Always work along the grain: wipe in the direction of the wood grain, not across it. It avoids visible streaking and is the safest habit on every one of our finishes.
How damp should the cloth be? Barely damp – it should not release a drop when squeezed, and there should never be standing water left on the surface. Excess moisture can find its way into joints, end grain or board edges, where it may cause swelling, blistering and lifting of the finish.
Drying afterwards: wipe the whole area dry straight away with a clean dry cloth, following the grain. Never leave a damp surface to air-dry on its own, and keep it out of direct sun and away from heat while it dries. On a large flat surface such as a tabletop, leave the room ventilated for 10–20 minutes afterwards.
| What to use | What never to use |
|---|---|
| A soft microfibre cloth (300–400 GSM is ideal) or a lint-free cotton cloth | Bleach, ammonia or ammonia-based glass cleaner |
| Plain water for most cleaning | Acetone, thinners or other solvent cleaners |
| A mild, pH-neutral wood furniture cleaner, or 1–2 drops of mild washing-up liquid per litre of water, when water alone isn't enough | High-strength alcohol or IPA, and disinfectant |
| No particular brand is required for any of our ranges | Strong acid or alkali cleaners |
| Scouring powder, metal polishing powder, abrasive polishing cream, abrasive pads, scouring pads, steel wool, sandpaper, hard brushes or coarse paper towels | |
| Silicone furniture polish sprays | |
| Steam cleaners |
Also avoid dragging sharp, hard or heavy objects across the surface.
Home remedies to avoid: please don't use white vinegar, lemon juice, citrus cleaners, baking soda, olive oil or homemade cleaning mixtures. They can dull or etch the finish and leave a residue that's difficult to remove. Prevent marks instead – use coasters under drinks, mats under hot dishes, cutlery and reed diffusers, and felt pads under ornaments, pots, lamps and any decorative items.
Mixed materials in one piece: the same cleaning method applies to every wooden part of a piece, whatever sits beneath the finish – solid wood, veneer, board or engineered wood. The finish runs continuously across the whole item. If your piece has upholstered parts (Hadley), vacuum these with an upholstery attachment rather than wiping them.
Where to place your furniture
| Consideration | Guidance |
|---|---|
| Heat | At least 1m from radiators, heaters and heat vents, and at least 1.5m from fireplaces, wood-burning stoves and open flames. Over underfloor heating, leave a 5cm ventilation gap beneath cabinet bases and avoid covering the heated area with thick rugs. Dry, direct heat is the most common cause of shrinkage, cracking and split panels. |
| Direct sunlight | Prolonged direct sun fades and yellows wood finishes, and the drying effect can cause shrinkage and cracking. Use curtains, blinds or UV-blocking window film, keep the piece out of strong midday sun, and rotate it – along with any objects standing on it – from time to time so it ages evenly. |
| Walls, windows & airflow | Leave a gap of 2–5cm between the back of the piece and the wall so air can circulate. Avoid cold, uninsulated exterior walls, and don't stand furniture against window glass where condensation forms. Choose a well-ventilated spot with soft, indirect light. |
| Humidity & temperature | Happiest at 40–60% relative humidity and 15–30°C. Sudden swings are what cause damage, so use a humidifier in a very dry, heated room and a dehumidifier in a damp one. |
| Rooms to avoid | Not suitable for outdoor use, bathrooms, or anywhere with frequent condensation or sharp changes in temperature and humidity. Kitchens and conservatories are only suitable where humidity and temperature stay reasonably controlled and ventilated – see the range guidance below. |
Feeding and re-treating
Does my furniture need feeding? It depends on the finish. Oslo (wax & oil) and Hadley (lacquer plus wax) need topping up periodically. Amberley, Marlow, Ophelia, Burford & Chalbury are sealed with NC lacquer and need no waxing, oiling, sanding or re-finishing at all – just cleaning. Exact products and intervals are in the range guidance below.
How to apply wax or oil – if your range does need feeding, the method is the same:
- Clean the surface and let it dry completely.
- Spot-test the product on a hidden corner to check the colour.
- Apply a thin, even coat along the grain with a lint-free cloth.
- Leave it to absorb (10–30 minutes depending on the product).
- Buff along the grain with a clean dry cloth until the surface is even and not sticky.
- Ventilate the room while it cures, and keep water and heavy objects off it until it has.
Signs it needs re-treating: loss of sheen or a cloudy, dull look; a dry, rough feel; water soaking in instead of beading on the surface; pale, thirsty-looking grain; fine surface scratches. What you do next depends on your finish – oiled and waxed pieces can be re-treated at home, whereas worn lacquer needs professional refinishing.
Never over-apply: more isn't better. Too much wax or oil leaves a sticky or hazy film, attracts dust and fingerprints, gives an uneven gloss, masks the grain, takes much longer to cure and makes any future repair harder. Always apply thinly and buff off every trace of excess.
Small repairs
Minor scratches and scuffs: light scratches can usually be disguised at home with a colour-matched touch-up marker or wax repair crayon. Apply sparingly, then buff along the grain with a soft cloth. How well it hides depends on how deep the scratch is. Never sand a whole surface yourself. See specific guidance on your range below.
Loose joints and wobbles: start with the hardware – re-tighten bolts, screws and fittings with the tools supplied, and never drill new holes. If a glued joint has come loose, what to do next depends on your range – some can be re-glued at home, others should go to a professional. See the range guidance below.
Spills and water damage – for a spill, blot it up straight away and dry the area. If a piece has been soaked:
- Blot all standing water with dry cloths, including seams and carved detail.
- Move it to a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot, away from sun, radiators and underfloor heating.
- Remove any detachable parts and raise the base so air can circulate underneath and behind.
- Let it dry naturally at room temperature – a fan for gentle air movement is fine.
Never use a hair dryer, heater or hot-air blower – rapid drying causes cracking and warping. Allow several days before putting weight on the piece again, and contact us if veneer swells or the finish cracks or lifts.
Your care routine at a glance
| Frequency | What to do |
|---|---|
| Every week | Dust with a dry, soft cloth. Wipe up spills as they happen. |
| Every 6 months | Check and tighten all fittings, screws and metal connectors. Pull the piece out and dust behind and beneath it to keep air moving. |
| Every 12 months | Inspect the finish for wear, dullness or scratches and deal with anything you find early. |
| Ongoing | Keep the room at roughly 40–60% relative humidity. Re-feed the surface if your range needs it – see below. |
Guidance for your range
| Oslo | Amberley, Marlow, Ophelia | Burford & Chalbury | Hadley | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finish | Water-based paint with a wax & oil finish. | Solvent-based NC lacquer, the same across every part of the piece. | Solvent-based NC lacquer, sometimes applied over a stain. Gives consistent protection whatever the substrate. | Solvent-based lacquer. |
| Feeding | Required. Re-apply a matching water-based hardwax oil care paste (silicone-free, solvent-free, food-safe) every 6–12 months on high-use surfaces (dining tables, coffee tables, desks) and every 1–2 years on wardrobes, sideboards and cabinets. Allow 12–24 hours of ventilation before use or water exposure. | None required. The lacquer is a complete sealed finish. A silicone-free furniture polish may be used every 6–12 months if you wish, but it isn't necessary. | None required – maintenance-free until there's visible wear or damage. | Required, unlike our other lacquered ranges. Use a dedicated furniture wax or wood oil for solid wood, free of solvents and abrasives. Treat high-touch areas (tabletops, armrests) every 1–2 months and less-handled areas (cabinet bodies, backs) every 3–6 months. Curing: ~30 minutes normally, 1 hour in a humid or cold room, plus 20 minutes for carved areas and gaps. |
| Cleaning | As per everyday cleaning above. | As per everyday cleaning above. | As per everyday cleaning above. | As per everyday cleaning above. |
| Placement | As per placement advice above. | As per placement advice above. | As per placement advice above. | As per placement advice above. |
| Scratches | Walnut colour: Colour-matched wood wax crayon buffed along the grain (walnut pieces) Light oak colour: sand very lightly and re-apply the wax & oil product. | Use the touch-up product (painted white only). | Any colour-matched touch-up marker, wax repair crayon or repair kit designed for lacquered furniture. | Apply a thin layer of furniture wax or wood oil, leave 10 minutes and buff thoroughly; the wax fills fine lines. |
| Loose glued joints | Can be repaired at home – clear out dust and debris, apply water-based wood glue, align and clamp, wipe off excess immediately and leave 24 hours to cure. | Re-tighten screws and inspect every 6 months, never drill new holes. For a loose glued joint, use a professional repair service. | Professional repair recommended; re-tighten bolts, screws and fittings periodically yourself. | Can be repaired at home – separate the joint gently, clean out old dust and glue, apply wood glue evenly, reassemble and clamp tightly, wipe off excess and leave 24 hours or more to cure. Joints only need checking if you notice movement. |
| Beeswax | Not recommended | Not recommended | Not recommended | Furniture wax may be applied over wood oil on this range – applied properly it won't discolour or damage the finish. |
| After soaking | Ventilate for at least 3–7 days before use, and re-oil if the surface looks cloudy or dull. | – | – | Allow 2–3 days of natural drying for minor exposure and 5–7 days for heavy soaking. |
| Worn or damaged lacquer | – | Don't sand or refinish it yourself – contact a professional furniture repair service. | Don't sand or refinish it yourself – contact a professional furniture repair service. | – |
If a mark won't shift, the finish has worn through, or a piece has been damaged by water or heat, please contact our customer service team before attempting a repair yourself – sanding or refinishing at home can make the damage harder to put right.
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